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History Repeats

4/25/2015

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Two years ago, Mike and I were surfing Rifles and Mike caught one of the waves of the day. Yesterday was a repeat of both - Rifles and Mike on a bomb. Surfed Rifles and 4-Bobs yesterday. A bit smaller today, but going to be another surf marathon with only 2 days left on island. But moment of the day yesterday was watching our new friend, Anthony, almost get caught inside on a swing set at 

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Surf Sacrifice at Sand Island

4/24/2015

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Swell be slow to develop, so we followed a long standing tradition for a bon fire in advance of a swell. Lots of beer. Lots of fun. Let's see if tomorrow produces. Some fore runners showing at 4 Bobs tonight.

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Friday...Swell Not Yet Here

4/23/2015

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Surfed small Nipussi with a bunch of Brazilians this morning. Swell not showing yet. Some photos from boat ride out. Boatman Andy has nicknamed Mike "too much money". Too funny. Love Andy's smile an

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Better Than Work

4/23/2015

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The saying "it beats work" is a something we hear in the lineup a lot.  A more appropriate saying for surfing the Mentawais is "it beats everything"!  This is one of the Umas where we live. I have Uma #1 alone. Definitely living the dream in the Mentawais. 

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Kid Rips

4/23/2015

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Small waves with clouds and rain past 2 days, so here's a photo of Chris Ryan at 4-Bobs from a couple nights ago. Swell should start to show tomorrow.

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Lots of Surf Photos for the SCST Crew. Here's a Teaser

4/21/2015

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Duane wearing the LD colors at Nipussi, Mentawai Islands, Indonesia.

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April 21st, 2015

4/21/2015

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Boat ride back to camp after a fun dawn patrol session at Nipussi. Mike and I in the old man corner making sure the kids behave in the boat :-)

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Calm Before the Storm

4/21/2015

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Small swell the past couple days has us chasing waves  at Burgerworld and Nipussi.  I still can't figure out Burgerworld after three trip there. Bigger swell on the way to provide more break options.  Last 2 days we have had great sessions at Nipussi with sets in the head high to slightly overhead range. Every once in awhile a bigger set will role through. This is what happens when you get caught in the impact zone with someone duck diving right behind your duck dive. Got tangled in the wash. Rail damage to CI Black Beauty (my go to board here) from a head that hit rail. Luckily no serious body injuries. My board. Not my head.  Ding repair in progress with glass buckled to stringer. Guess I'm riding the 5'6" HS Hypto Krypto today...

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Mentawai Sunset - The Golden Hour

4/20/2015

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The golden hour in the Mentawai Islands at Kandui Resorts  is special. Actually, it's like no place else in the world. Hot colors, cold Bintang beers and the warm glow of 5-6 hours of hard core surfing...and a final sunset session at 4-Bobs. It doesn't get better than this, especially with a young man on his first Indo trip with his Dad. Chris Ryan...basking in the golden glow...Mike - enjoying every minute and every wave.

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Island Transport

4/19/2015

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Get up at 6am. Breakfast. Surf report check. Wind check. Then decide among dozens of surf breaks where to go based on swell and wind direction.  These are the Kandui/Mentawai high speed canoes that get us there. Tied up in estuary on back side of island, the locals come pick us up right at the beach when we are ready rock and roll. Surf till lunch. Eat. Short siesta and back out for session 2. If waves and wind cooperate...and energy holds a sunset surf will wrap the day. Then Bintangs, dinner and bed. Wake up tomorrow and repeat.

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Duane E. De Freese, Ph.D.
Florida


Marine Biologist
Surfer
Conservationist
Contact: [email protected]


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Michael T. Ryan, CFP, Ph.D. 
Rhode Island


Certified Financial Planner
Surfer
Father
World Traveler
Zydeco aficionado 

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